The Thunderbird Atlatl website is in the process of being updated! There will be new changes and updates in the next few days.
We have not made many changes on the catalog yet but that will be the next project. The new website was uploaded a few days ago. One problem that needs to be worked out in the next few days is the catalog pictures! The pictures are not appearing next to the catalog descriptions and we are working on that problem. We can email pictures from our paper catalog if you are interested in a particular atlatl or any atlatls, just email us at contact@thunderbirdatlatl.com and we will send the pictures. Spring is finally here!
Atlatl Opportunities for Groups, Museums and Individuals
If you know of a group or museum interested in trying atlatls or starting a primitive archery program, the staff at Thunderbird Atlatl would be happy to work with them.
We have provided atlatl equipment for a variety of museum programs, youth groups, atlatl clubs, museum shops, state, federal and private parks and other associations and groups. We have also been able to offer atlatl equipment for television and movie projects. Some of the youth groups we have worked with include Boys and Girl Scouts, church groups/camps, 4-H groups and a number of high school and college clubs.
We offer a wide variety of atlatls, atlatl darts and atlatl kits and are able to put a package together to meet most budgets.
Are you an atlatlist wondering where all the atlatlists are? Why not consider starting an atlatl group in your area. We are aware of several successful atlatl clubs and would be happy to provide you with information and contacts for starting your own group. It is extremely easy to set up contests through the World Atlatl Association and International Atlatl Society, we would be happy to provide any information you. If you are starting a club, we can work with you on bulk pricing on Thunderbird Atlatl equipment.
We do offer atlatl making workshops and would be happy to discuss the possibility of setting up a workshop in your area if you are within a few hours of our company base in New York State. If you are further away, we can provide training support and provide you with equipment to set up your own workshop.
Give us a call at 1-800–836-4520, we would be happy to work with you!
Bob and Cheryll Berg
Looking Forward to Spring!
When there’s a windchill of minus zero in upstate New York, the best thing to do is think about spring or indoor atlatl contests! Of course, heading south also works as half our team has been at atlatl and flintknapping events in Florida since the end of January. They will be heading home to the Northeast later this week!
There are a few indoor atlatl contests! Doug Bassett has been setting up indoor shoots at Jim’s Pro Shop in Shortsville, New York. The next event is Feb. 23 from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. There will be an ISAC, IASAC and locals. Range Fee is $7. Those attending will want to bring five darts with foreshafts rigged for standard arrow inserts if you want to shoot any of the video hunts on the big screen. Each hunt can accommodate up to 10 people at a time (separate fee is $7 per person)
To get to Jim’s Pro Shop, take exit 43 off Thruway and south on 21 to Rte 96, 2 miles west (sign will probably say north) to just past blinking light for County Route 28. The block bldg (4885 Route 96) is on the left. For further information contact: Douglas Bassett (585) 493-3625; Douglas.Bassett@oprhp.state.ny.us
Check out the World Atlatl Association web page for more events. We will try to update our event listing this week! We have well stocked inventory if you are looking to try your first atlatl or want to upgrade your equipment. Give us a call at 1-800-836-4520 or email us at contact@Thunderbirdatlatl.com or Thunderbirdatlatl@gmail.com and we will get back to you. Keep Warm!
Making Cane Atlatl Darts: Straightening Georgia’s World Record Setting Bamboo
By Mark Bracken
Four Time Atlatl World Champion
This tutorial by Mark Bracken was originally posted at our sister site, Atlatls.com. It’s one of the best overviews of how to make cane or bamboo darts.
Step One
You can do this by storing the cane in tied bundles of twelve or so. In the winter, I dry my cane in the house where it is warm and dry. In the summer, the attic is the place of choice. Drying the cane should take about three to six months. In my opinion, I usually use FULLY SEASON THE CANE before attempting to straighten it. The method you use should not be one that uses extreme heat, This might crack the cane unexpectedly.
Once it has been seasoned, it may have a green color to it; this is ok, exposure to the sun will brown them. Now that your cane is dry, sand or cut off the little buds at each node. Take caution in removing the buds from the skinny end, as not to gouge the shaft as the bud is removed. You could leave a little extra material here for added strength. The reason is this area is a weak point and can break when you’re straitening it.
This next step is for extremely dry cane only.
Now, trust me on this, soak your cane shafts in water for 12 to 24 hours before straitening them. This rehydrates them and makes the process almost “risk free” – as far as unexpected breakages. If you try to straiten dry cane with heat, they will scorch quickly and unexpectedly break! The added moisture will evaporate very quickly as you straiten them leaving them as dry as the were before! I soak my cane in a PVC pipe. Where you soak yours is up to your imagination. Trust me, this is the way to go!
The next day, take your cane out of the water and wipe it off with a cloth while it is still wet. This makes cleaning the cane a “snap”. Use dry heat not steam!. I use a propane heater turned down very low.
Step Two
First working on every other section between the nodes, (look at the picture below for my definitions of “nodes” and “segments”.) Then as it has cooled, do the remaining segments. (It really helps here to work on more than one shaft. This gives each shaft a chance to cool before you monkey with it – if it’s still warm, you will screw up what ever you just straitened.
Step Three
Straighten every other node.
Step Four
Straighten the remaining nodes.
Step Five
This is the step where you’re fine tuning and hitting those stubborn spots again.
Now let’s get started. Start by working on the areas between the nodes. Lightly and evenly brown the crooked area with a twirling motion being careful not to scorch it. The cane will take on a rubbery consistency when enough heat has been applied. Carefully bend it over your thigh, gently work the bend out with a rolling motion, this will prevent kinking. Use a leather pad on your leg to prevent burning your leg (the cane will be that hot!) You can slightly over bend it and return the shaft to a strait position. This may help to keep a finished dart from returning to it’s original shape. Some bends are just to severe to do this, use your best judgment.
Now getting back to where we were. STRAIGHTEN BETWEEN THE NODES DOING EVERY OTHER ONE, don’t panic if it looks like a BANANA after the first step is finished… It should.
The reason for doing every other node is to prevent rebending a warm area, previously straitened. You must give the shaft time to cool before fooling with bends that are “too close” to the recently straitened area. A good tip is to work 3 or more shafts allowing each one time to cool between steps. IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO WORK ON THE SEGMENTS FIRST. IF YOU DO THE NODES FIRST,THEY WILL TEND TO BEND BACK AS YOU STRAIGHTEN THE ADJACENT SEGMENTS. TRUST ME ON THIS
As you reach step five, you can test your progress by holding the nock end and rolling the dart with your fingers. The dart should rotate with a balanced attribute. It should not “lope” as you turn it. Sorta like a cam shaft on a motor. They are not straight but they are balanced. You may not be able to get your first shafts perfect. You should be able to get a good “balance”. How perfect you get them is up to you, but remember that they must have balance.
HERE ARE SOME MORE HELPFUL HINTS.
- It is best to start on your worst piece of cane. If you break it, keep it for practice and learn the limitations of the cane Don’t worry about small kinks in your finished darts, they generally have no affect on performance.
- Huge bends that you are unable to get strait, you can correct by working the areas up or down from the problem spot to achieve a “balanced” dart.
- Don’t scrape the natural wax coating off the dart. This offers good natural protection from the elements. The exception to this is the area to be fletched, I scrape it off and dip or spray this portion of the dart with a varnish or varathane to aid the fletching cement’s adhesion to the shaft. I use a cement called DUCO Household Cement. I think “wally world” or “came-apart” has it.
- Your new darts do not have to be fore shafted. I glue in copper or stone points with five min. epoxy or “J-B Weld” (and no, I don’t use it when repairing stuff in my shed, as I now have the top welder, brand new).
- The points do not have to fall on a node to be strong. I use unwaxed dental floss to wrap the shaft and the base of the point. I wrap them about 2 inches up the dart from the point, THIS PREVENTS THE SHAFT FROM CRACKING IN THE EVENT YOU HIT A CONCRETE WALL, AUTOMOBILE OR MASTODON SKULL.
- Finally I coat the whole haft with epoxy.
THANKS, I HOPE THIS INFORMATION HELPS!!
– Mark Bracken
February Plans!
The Thunderbird Atlatl staff will be busy in February! We will be splitting up our efforts between our base operation in New York State and Florida! You will still be able to reach us at our main headquarters at 1-800-836-4520 or place orders through our web page. We have lots of atlatls and darts in stock.
We will also have a crew in Florida – attending three weekends of Knap-ins! If you are in Florida, stop in and see us at one of the locations listed below. International Standard Accuracy Contests are planned for the first two knapins. If you have any questions, give the contacts listed a call or call us and we will try to find out information for you.
If you are in Florida through February 17, stop in to see us at one of the knap-ins we will be attending. Check out the dates and information below.
Here are the shows you can find us at:
GATOR-KNAP ’08- Prehistoric Technology Show February 1 to 3
This inaugural Knap-in will take place at the Stephen Foster State Folk Culture Center State Park in White Springs, Florida. Admission is $4 per vehicle. The knap-in is in collaboration with the Osceola National Forest. There will be demonstrations and classes in technologies such as flint knapping, ceramics, cordage and carving of stone, shell, bone and wood. Featured speakers are: Dr. C. Andrew Hemmings who will speak on Tools of the Trade: Clovis Stone, Bone and Ivory Tools from Across the New World and Donna Ruhl, MA,who present a program entitled “Beyond Newmans’ Lake: The Timucua’s use of Prehistoric Dugouts in North Central Florida Waterways.
Also featured will be an ISAC Atlatl competition, flint knapping competition and late night knapping sessions for campers. For further information call Mitzi Nelson at (386) 397-7005 or email mmones@fs.fed.us.
KNAPPER & PRIMITIVE ARTISTS FESTIVAL Friday-Sun, Feb 8, 9, 10 at Ochlockonee River State Park
This event is dedicated to Stone Age Technologies and primitive arts such as flint knapping, primitive ceramics, shell, bone and wood carving, old and new world bow and arrow construction Atlatl construction or other prehistoric art forms. The aim is to show case these ancient art forms and educate the public on the world’s rich prehistory. The sale of Knapping tools and materials will be available. Fees: Park entrance fees will apply. Contact: (850)962-2771
FOURTH ANNUAL CENTRAL FLORIDA KNAP IN & PRIMITIVE ARTS KNAP-IN & PRIMITIVE ARTS FESTIVAL February 16 to 17
Withalacoochee River Park, 12449 Withlacoochee Blvd., Dade City.
For further information contact: Betty Walters, 727-856-7506.